6. Marine Fish Tank Ultimate Setup Guide “Fowlr” Fish only with live rock

The following Ultimate Setup Guide and product selections will help you successfully create a “fish only” FOWLR (fish only with live rock) or fish and non-light-sensitive invertebrate aquarium. These guidelines and product selections are applicable to tanks from 29 gallons up to 75 gallons and recommend the best equipment for a successful outcome. When considering a saltwater aquarium, always remember the price of added filtration will easily pay for itself in fewer fish losses and less labor to keep the aquarium clean. In some cases, the recommendations include a second or third option. Since every aquarium is placed in a unique location and physical space limitations may be a factor, other viable choices appear for specific purposes where applicable. These type of aquariums are also suitable for invertebrates that do not have high light requirements as long as they are compatible with the fish chosen.

Stand or Cabinet
Make sure the cabinet is properly constructed for handling up to 10lbs per gallon of water. If something other than an aquarium stand is used, it should be able to support the weight and hold the entire rim of the aquarium bottom level with no spaces between the aquarium and the support. Plywood or solid wood construction is preferred to press or chip board materials. They will last longer and not swell from the humidity from sumps or cleaning the aquarium.

Filtration and Flow

Sumps and Built-in Filtration (Best)

The best types of filtration for tanks of this type are sump-style or built-in type filters, such as those available on the Madeira 43 Gallon aquarium by Hydra Aquatics. Built-in back filters and sumps accommodate a large amount of aquaLife Biomatrix biological media, provide surface skimming, better aeration, as well as mechanical, sponge, and chemical filter capacity. Red Sea also makes all inclusive tanks in this range that include cabinets.

Sumps, such as those by Eshopps, expand the overall capacity of the system, accommodate even more aquaLife Biomatrix, refugiums, protein skimmers, and other forms of add-on filtration reactors.

Tanks must be drilled or have overflows built into them to use sump-style filters. Kits for drilling tanks are available. They are called “ghost overflows.” Prodigy is the best version Eshopps has and Eclipse is the “good” model. These overflows come with a drill bit and template to drill the holes along with the overflow assembly. Make sure the tank is not made from tempered glass. Tempered glass cannot be drilled. All of the Hydra Aquatics, Mr Aqua, and UP Aqua tanks can be drilled.

If drilling an aquarium is not for you or not possible, Eshopps has siphon boxes or overflow boxes that work with sumps that do not require drilling the aquarium. Drilled aquariums are preferred for the ultimate system.

Return Pump

Protein Skimmers

Protein skimmers should be included on an Ultimate Setup fish-only system. Protein skimmers add aeration and remove waste before it breaks down to increase nitrate loads and cause algae problems. A wide range of models is available, but the Elite Skimmers are the best considerations. The AquaVitro Division Skimmers offer high drain protein skimmers with adjustable components making them adaptable to many sump configurations. High drain skimmers are not affected by sump water height or evaporation. These are available by phone orders or in our facility only. The manufacturer does not allow on-line sales.

UV Sterilizers

Pellet Reactors and Media Reactors

Pellet Reactor

Biopellets have become a popular method of removing nitrates and phosphates from an aquarium. Made primarily of a biodegradable polymer that promotes (“feeds”) aerobic and anaerobic bacteria, biopellets are a viable method to consume undesirable nutrients (NO3 and PO4) within a reactor.

Pro Tip: Only use a pellet reactor if you are using a protein skimmer. Pellet reactors can cause bacteria blooms in heavily loaded systems but this is not an issue when used with UV sterilizers. Protein skimmers also help avoid these blooms. Bashsea makes the best reactors in the industry. Aquavitro M reactors are also great choices.

Media Reactors

Bashsea also makes media reactors that can be added to the sump. Large amounts of carbon and chemical media can be used in them. These reactors are very efficient because they do not allow any water to bi-pass the filter media. Media reactors are the best way to run carbon, phosphate removers and resin media.

Live Rock and Powerheads or Stream Pumps are part of the filtration

Other Essentials

Good Habits to Follow

• Do a 25% water change monthly or a 10% water change twice a month. Remember to dechlorinate the water and adjust it to the same temperature as the aquarium water.

• The pH should be 8.2 High quality salt such as Fritz RPM has added buffers and with proper water changes, pH should be stable. Aquavitro Salinity is sold only at local authorized dealers, like our local store. However, if water changes are being done and pH is a problem, use Marine Buffer by SeaChem. Further information is available on water parameters in the Log Sheet section.

Further Reading:
9. Mixing Saltwater
11. Supplements & Additives
12. Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle

6. 29-75 Gallon Marine Fish (FOWLR) Tank Setup Guide Fish Only with Live Rock

The following guidelines and product selections will help you successfully create a “fish only” FOWLR (fish only with live rock) or fish and non-light-sensitive invertebrate aquarium. The guidelines and product selections are applicable to tanks from 29 gallons up to 75 gallons. These type of aquariums are also suitable for invertebrates that do not have high light requirements as long as they are compatible with the fish chosen.

When considering a saltwater aquarium, always remember the price of added filtration will easily pay for itself in fewer fish losses and less labor to keep the aquarium clean. In some cases, the recommendations include a second or third option. Since every aquarium is placed in a unique location where physical space limitations may be a factor, other viable choices appear for specific purposes where applicable.

Hoods and Lights

Stands and Cabinets

Make sure the cabinet is properly constructed for handling up to 10lbs per gallon of water. If something other than an aquarium stand is used, it should be able to support the weight and hold the entire rim of the aquarium bottom level with no spaces between the aquarium and the support. Plywood or solid wood construction is preferred to press or chip board materials. They will last longer and not swell from the humidity if sumps or from cleaning the aquarium.

Filtration and Flow

Sumps and Built in Filtration (Best)

The best type of filtration for tanks of this type are sump-style or built in type filters, such as those available on the Madeira 43 Gallon aquarium by Hydra Aquatics. The built in back filters and sumps accommodate a large amount of aquaLife Biomatrix biologocal media, provide surface skimming, better aeration, mechanical, sponge, and chemical filter capacity. Red Sea also makes all inclusive tanks in this range that include cabinets.

Sumps, such as those by Eshopps, expand the overall capacity of the system, accommodate even more Biomatrix, refugiums, protein skimmers, and other forms of add-on filtration reactors. Tanks must be drilled or have overflows built into them to use sump-style filters.

Kits for drilling tanks are available. They are called “ghost overflows.” Prodigy is the best version Eshopps has and Eclipse is the “good” model. They come with a drill bit and template to drill the holes along with the overflow assembly. Make sure the tank is not made from tempered glass. Tempered glass cannot be drilled. All of the Hydra Aquatics, Mr Aqua, and UP Aqua tanks can be drilled. If drilling an aquarium is not for you or not possible, Eshopps has siphon boxes or overflow boxes that work with sumps that do not require drilling the aquarium. Drilled aquariums are preferred for the ultimate system.

Return Pump

Remember, every sump needs a pump to return the water to the aquarium. Buy the best pump possible. This ensures reliable operation. The Platinum Blue by ZK is the quietest pump for this application, while Sicce and Oase offer good alternatives, as well. Purchase one that is 5 times the tank size in flow rate. Use the pump along with powerheads, aka wave or stream pumps and CaribSea Live Rock, which is seeded live rock with any pests. The rock becomes part of the biological filter and creates an active reef environment for the aquarium.

Alternative Filtration

Alternative Filtration: HOB Hang On Back or Box Filters

Additional Aeration

Aeration is critical in saltwater, especially when using a canister filter. With an airstone, the Silent Giant Air Pump is an excellent choice. This is not needed when using a protein skimmer, built in filter or sump. Additional flow with powerheads also know as stream pumps often is enough added aeration.

Note: air pumps work very well but must be used with tanks that are covered to reduce the spray in an open top rimless aquarium which will cause saltwater spray or saltwater creep.

Other Essentials

Good Habits to Follow

• Do a 25% water change monthly or a 10% water change twice a month. Remember to dechlorinate the water and adjust it to the same temperature as the aquarium water.

• The pH should be 8.2 High quality salt such as Fritz RPM has added buffers and with proper water changes, pH should be stable. Aquavitro Salinity is sold only at local authorized dealers, like our local store. However, if water changes are being done and pH is a problem, use Marine Buffer by SeaChem. Further information is available on water parameters section.

Further Reading:

2
9. Mixing Saltwater
11. Supplements & Additives
12. Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle

6. Mixing Saltwater for the Aquarium

Specific gravity, or relative density, is a measure of the salinity of the aquarium water after adding salt, and is a critical measurement when mixing saltwater for the aquarium. Aquarium salinity is generally set to mimic the average salinity of sea water, between 1.020-1.022 for FOWLR Fish only aquariums or 1.025 for reef aquariums, and is measured with a hydrometer or a refractometer. Purchase a good, reliable hydrometer to measure the salinity of your water. If you decide to use a hydrometer, your local dealer may be able to calibrate your hydrometer against a refractometer for the most accurate readings at home. Refractometers are also available for home aquaria and are a must for any serious hobbyist. The professional quality aquaLife Refractomer is the best available and will provide years of accurate service.

View All Hydrometers
View All Refractometers
View All Thermometers

Mixing in a new aquarium without livestock

A new system should be run with freshwater prior to adding salt. This test run allows time to check for leaks, locate equipment problems and avoid wasting salt.

After all system equipment is installed and running properly, decorations are in place, the tank has been filled with freshwater and dechlorinated, salt can be added slowly and mixed directly in the tank. When mixing saltwater for the aquarium, small amounts of salt are added at several intervals and allowed to mix thoroughly before checking salinity with a hydrometer.

Salinity can be checked while water is still cloudy, but there should be no undissolved salt at the bottom of the tank. Continue adding salt until the salinity measures 1.020 on the hydrometer. Once the proper salinity has been reached, allow the tank to totally clear and reach a constant temperature of 76-78°F. Allow 24 hours for settling and temperature compensation.

When the tank is clear and the temperature is correct, adjust the salinity to 1.022 (1.025 for reefs) by adding small amounts of salt. If the salinity measures above 1.022 or 1.025 for reefs at a temperature of 76-78°F small amounts of water will have to be removed from the tank and replaced with dechlorinated freshwater. When mixing saltwater for the aquarium, this may have to be repeated until the salinity is correct.

Water Changes with livestock

NEVER ADD SALT MIX DIRECTLY TO THE TANK!
Turn off the filtration equipment and remove 10-25% of the tank water by siphoning with a gravel cleaner. Keep track of the number of gallons of water removed by siphoning into measured buckets. Follow the procedure below to mix and replace the water removed from the tank during cleaning and siphoning.

The longer ahead the water is made the better. The temperature must be the same as the aquarium water. As long as all the salt is dissolved it is safe for use in about 15 minutes. RPM Reef Pro Mix Complete Sea Saltis a high grade saltwater mix that contains all of the major elements found in sea water and it mixes quickly. Buffers are added that may give a slight cloudiness that will clear quickly. Aquavitro Salinity is another high quality salt mix and is sold only at our local store.

4) Once the new saltwater has been added to the tank, clean and restart all equipment. Always re-check the salinity.

Special Note!

As water evaporates from the aquarium, the salt concentration of the remaining water increases. Salt does not evaporate. Always add dechlorinated freshwater to top off the tank.

Synthetic Sea Salt and pH

RPM Reef Pro Mix Complete Sea Salt, 200 gallon box – This mix creates the perfect environment for delicate marine life, as well as supporting enhanced biological filtration. Extra calcium and magnesium to benefit corals and other invertebrates in reef tanks. RPM Sea Salt achieves the correct salinity, pH, calcium concentration and magnesium concentration when re-hydrated as directed. Aquavitro Salinity is sold only at local authorized dealers, like our local store.

• Do a 25% water change monthly or a 10% water change twice a month. Remember to dechlorinate the water and adjust it to the same temperature as the aquarium water.

• The pH should be 8.2. High quality salt such as RPM Sea Salt has added buffers and with proper water changes, pH should be stable. However, if pH becomes a problem with water changes in reef tanks, use Marine Buffer or Reef Builder by SeaChem. Further information is available on water parameters in the Log Sheet section.

A word about tap water . . .

6. Choosing the Right Filter

Filtration is critical to water quality. A filter is a compact unit packed full of high surface area media where millions of beneficial organisms flourish. As the aquarium water, filled with fish waste and other debris, passes through the filter these organisms ‘consume’ the wastes, thus eliminating the pollutants that could eventually kill the fish. The market is saturated with filters of all types and choosing which type is right for you is an important decision. The first rule of fish keeping is – understand the Nitrogen Cycle. The second rule is – buy the best filter you can afford. Every single time your tank has water quality problems, the solutions are associated with these two rules.

Filter Types and Ratings

The filters types below are described and are given a rating system from 1-5, 5 being highest based on the criteria listed below. N/A means that feature is not applicable to that filter type.

Chemical Filtration – space to accommodate carbon, resins, phosphate removers, etc.
Mechanical Filtration – capable of removing actual particulate material
Biological Filtration – active surfaces for reducing ammonia and nitrite
Ease of cleaning
Economical to use
Packing Life – time between cleanings and media replacement
Aeration – capable of oxygenating the tank water
Ease of setup

Undergravel Filters

The old standby. People either love them or hate them. Undergravel filters have huge surface areas for biological filtration and can be operated with either airstones and an air pump or powerheads. When using powerheads, remember to use the aeration feature on powerheads or an airstone. These systems are occasionally the only filters that will fit the application. The down side is without frequent gravel cleaning via water changes, undergravel filters are a problem waiting to happen. Always use additional filtration, whenever possible.

Hanging/Box Filters

Probably the most popular type of filter. Although easy to both install and maintain, these filters require frequent cleaning and pad/sponge replacement. This is, however, a fairly easy task. Remember, these units hold the aquarium away from the wall 3-5 inches. For better water quality, opt for multiple box filters instead of bells and whistles. If one filter goes down, there is a backup. Never change both pads in a double padded filter or both filters in a dual box filter setup at the same time when cleaning. Alternating the media replacement preserves important bacteria. Some filters have room for additional bio media which should be used. Some have aeration features – moving surface water also aerates but remember, heavily loaded systems benefit from a decoratively placed airstone.

Prefilters, like the AquaLife Prefilter, fit most models and increase biological and mechanical while preventing small fish and invertebrates from being injured. Rinse these filters at the first sign of reduced flow.

Internal Filters

Many filters fall into this category. They include internal sponge, powered internal, and internal box or canister filters – air powered and motor powered. Breeders love them. They are easy, low cost, low hassle filters. They all aerate and biologically filter. The old fashioned, floss-filled internal air driven box or canister filter is great for breeding tanks, small tanks or for quarantine tanks. Internal filters can be packed with a range of filter media for biological, chemical or mechanical filtration depending on the application. Because they operate by forced air, they both aerate and filter the water. If a larger tank is having problems, add an internal filter filled with high quality carbon and floss. The disadvantage of filters in this class is size – they are simply too small to handle much fish load, must be hidden and take up floor space.

Canister Filters

Canister filters are quiet running filters with high biological capacity and should be considered second choice to trickle filters. Canister filters have both pros and cons. The better designed units have good chemical filtration because no water by-passes the media. Canisters are also ideal for planted freshwater systems or when trickle filters are simply too large for the application. Canister filters provide long service life if packed properly with quality media and are economical to operate compared to box filters. Remember, these filters are closed systems and usually have lower flow rates. Use a small air pump and a decoratively placed airstone in aquariums without live plants or in saltwater systems without protein skimmers. Air pumps increase oxygen levels and act as a fail-safe in the event of a filter failure. Choose a canister filter one size larger than manufacturers recommend for heavily loaded systems or for saltwater. Larger filters are more efficient and have higher flow rates. Stay away from filters that use small internal baskets for media. Better units have either large internal baskets or trays and can be completely packed using 99% of their space for media.

Trickle Filters

This is the most important decision keepers make. Saving a few dollars at this stage can mean countless dollars in fish losses. Under-filtered tanks cause problems again and again and make fish keeping a headache instead of a pleasurable, exciting hobby. Trickle filters are the best choice for tanks above 30 gallons. Good mechanical and biological filtration maintains robust oxygen levels and keeps harmful fish waste and other decaying debris from polluting the water and killing fish. Trickle filters, because of their size and expanded biological surface area, perform these tasks better than any other form of filtration and should always be considered the first choice. Trickle filters are more reliable and easier to maintain. Since there are no costly cartridges to replace, trickle filters are also more cost effective to operate.

Protein Skimmers

Protein skimmers remove proteins and waste aiding in algae and water quality control while lessening the need for carbon use in fish only systems. They are not needed for aeration in a system with a quality trickle filter. Skimmers help in phosphate removal and should be considered mandatory to all “reef” setups. Some of the “Mud Type” systems do not call for them, however, they could be added if needed. Skimmers increase the efficiency of any system. Remember, all skimmers require cleaning and regular checking.